Watches hold a significant place in the luxury market, and we often highlight industry news. This time, we focus on a model without a second hand, where Omega has truly listened to connoisseurs.
Traditionally, verifying the precision of a mechanical watch, worthy of certification, involves meticulously observing its second hand. This process, conducted in laboratories over many days and under various conditions and wrist positions, requires photographic proof. A watch earns the “Master Chronometer” title from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) if its deviation is no more than five seconds within 24 hours, even in a magnetic field up to 15,000 Gauss. However, watches without a second hand were previously ineligible for this distinction, primarily due to the lack of photographic evidence, despite being highly appreciated by enthusiasts.
This challenge has apparently spurred Omega to innovate. Since 2023, the brand has operated the Laboratoire de Précision, a testing laboratory certified by METAS for Master Chronometer certification and recognized by the Swiss Accreditation Service (SAS). It was here that the “Dual Metric Technology” was developed. This newly engineered testing device acoustically captures every tick of a watch for 25 days. The data is then integrated with temperature, atmospheric pressure, and positional information to create a comprehensive report, identifying not only potential defects but also their context. Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann states that this technology renders the second hand “superfluous” for testing purposes.
A perfect showcase for this innovative procedure is Omega’s new collection of nine models, named “Constellation Observatory.” Each watch houses one of two new movements, making them the first two-handed watches in horological history to receive Master Chronometer certification.
This milestone also pays homage to Omega’s rich history. The brand once dominated legendary precision competitions at Swiss and British observatories like no other manufacturer, achieving 93 victories and 72 world records in Geneva, Neuchâtel, and Kew-Teddington.
The design also draws heavily from Omega’s heritage. The foundation is the slim “Centenary” from 1948, which marked the beginning of the “Constellation” line. The design language extends to the twelve-sided “Pie-Pan” dial introduced in 1952 (curved like an inverted pie dish), the distinctive “dog leg” lugs, the arrow-shaped Dauphine hands, and the “Constellation” star at 6 o’clock. The case back features an engraved observatory dome surrounded by eight stars, each representing a major chronometry prize won by Omega between 1933 and 1952.
Technical innovation and a thoughtful embrace of heritage rarely harmonize so elegantly. This combination, along with the trend towards elegant “dress watches,” is expected to significantly boost the brand’s business.
