Luxury timepieces are defying global trends. The watch industry demonstrated resilience at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, also revealing a growing interest in new brands. Here are the highlights from the exhibition.
For those who want to understand the state of the luxury watch market without getting bogged down in numbers, an early start is essential. From eight in the morning, one could discern the atmosphere at the magnificent stands of Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest trade fair in Geneva. Silence would indicate a poor sign, while the sounds of good business – snippets of CEO speeches, personal accolades for top salespeople from the previous day, and repeated applause and appreciative whistles – suggested otherwise. Such rituals were frequent last week in the halls of Geneva’s Palexpo venue. By the afternoon of the first day, the vast majority of those spoken to expressed high satisfaction with the order flow thus far.
Despite expectations of customer restraint due to the prevailing global sentiment, the industry instead presented a blend of steady course-keeping, technical innovation, and a penchant for colorful designs. Celebrations of brand and model anniversaries were prominent – for instance, 100 years of the “Oyster” case for Rolex, 50 years of the “Nautilus” for Patek Philippe, and a century for Tudor. However, a grand spectacle was notably absent, with a consensus in the executive suites that it was “not the time” for such displays.
The exhibition was enriched by several new participants and returning brands. Notably, Audemars Piguet commanded attention with a magnificent stand that added glamour and draw to the first floor of the venue. Debutants like Credor from Japan, Sinn from Frankfurt, Corum and Behrens from China, and Favre Leuba from Solothurn, Switzerland, also contributed to the fair’s offerings. In particular, the “indie brands” – smaller manufactures not affiliated with luxury conglomerates – enjoyed significantly increased attention. The curiosity of watch dealers and collectors for brands that can still be discovered and supported in their growth appears to be at an all-time high. The revival of Universal Genève, now part of Breitling, also deserves mention; its presentation the evening before the fair was the “hottest ticket.”
Anecdotal evidence of a significant downturn due to a lack of reliable flight connections to the Gulf region was not observable at Watches & Wonders; the aisles, stands, and event areas seemed well-populated, especially on the third day. The organizers’ post-event report will detail attendance figures for public days and the overall success. Below are the 50 most compelling novelties for 2026, from the Geneva show and from brands not present there.
